https://revistacumbres.com.ar/en/summit-at-the-eighth-highest-mountain-in-the-world/?fbclid=IwAR3N6ICljn13En0u8BIAmzQzTSEwCEr9pX9LNfoTW5Xctr8RPCz58WMh1Mg#.XF1qS-vx6lM.facebookThe plans changed
On September 19 we heard that the weather would not be good for several days and
that between September 26 and 28 it would be time to summit it.I was 3 days resting at the BC and making plans with Temba and Sergi Mingote -a Spanish Climber who is trying to summit the three highest 8000’s in less than a year without oxygen supplement- to start the summit push on 23rd afternoon.
On 23rd Sept afternoon.We left BC at 4 pm and arrived at C1 in less than 3 hours We were well acclimated. That night was amazing, one of the best moments I had so far. How lucky we were to be there.
Next day early morning 24th Sept we left C1 to C2 and continue to C3. The way was not easy again with a lot of fresh snow. We spent
four hours to get there.
The snow between C2 and C3 was quite deep and hard to walk. That means from C3 to C4 could be even harder. We had another option: summit it from C3 and back to C3, depending how we feel. We decided to take the risk, it would be a great opportunity. We three hug each other with motivation words.
After a short nap,
we left C3 around 10 pm of that endless September 24. Critical hours
Opening the way, almost at the top of Manaslu.
When we left C3 it was not very strong wind, but after we reach the Col just below it started to blow very strong, and we were exposed to it until C4. After three hours walking, we finally find the fixed rope, just before we started to traverse the Manaslu Glacier. We arrived in C4 around 4:30 am through dismal condition.
From C4 we probably missed the way what made us face a terrifying ice wall with around 50° at 7600 meters. We spent too much time to find the right place to fix the rope and climb up. It was a critical moment.
In that 3 hours, around 7 am, I started to feel symptoms of frostbite on my feet, so I took the decision to use the oxygen to try to warm up, what took me around 20 minutes.
We meet three Sherpas from Fix Rope Team and go on with them too. The last 300 meters was the hardest ones. The snow covered above the knees, two hours to ascend 100 meters.
When we saw the final edge, I realized that I was above 8000 meters.
We were at summit. We were alone, just we six in that incredible wild nature. We were open the way with a lot of determination. We left C3 at 10 pm the day before and
arrived in the summit around 4 pm on September 25th, 18 hours walking.
We spent around one hour at the summit, at 8156 meters. No wind, blue sky. It was amazing to be there with that stunning view surround us. It was the biggest challenge I have done in my life, the biggest effort to conquer a dream.
We knew that we had to go down and it was the hardest part. We did 50% and now it’s time to do the other part. Climbing up here is an option but getting off here is a necessity.
We arrived at C3 around 10 pm. We walked 24 hours. We never imagined that we could spend so much time walking. It was the hardest thing I ever had experienced in my life. I’m so glad that I did.
I can resume all this gigantic effort in 3 words: Determination: keep going, one more step, one more. Focus: put all your energy, your mind body directional to present. And Love: you must love what you do in life.
1 ก.ย. - 6 ต.ค. 2019 Manaslu Expedition (อ่าน 40162 ครั้ง)
